Book Review: Real Food/Fake Food (2016)

Larry Olmsted's Real Food/Fake Food made me hangry (hungry + angry). The author's exposé about widespread food deception hits especially hard because he starts each chapter with vivid descriptions of how lovingly the real stuff is made and how delicious it is. And then he describes the fraudulent labeling and shipping practices of many players in the food industry. Finally, he ends with how savvy readers can, if not get their hands on real food, at least avoid the (usually high-priced) fakes. Thanks, Larry!

The opening chapter, about Parmigiano-Reggiano (parmesan), is an eye-opening foray into what goes into what Olmsted calls "real food"--fresh, wholesome ingredients, strict regulations, and very specific labels. I learned so much! For example, I did not know that real fancy cheese gets its name basically tattooed on the rind. Also, different factors and crafts contribute to the final product: the terroir, the dairy farmers, the cheesemakers, and the inspectors who check if the parmesan is up to their rigorous standards. (Reading this chapter reminded me of Samin Nosrat's visit to Italy to eat chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano in Salt Fat Acid Heat, and how she practically passed out from pleasure.) Anyway, afterwards Olmsted warns readers that popular parmesan cheeses available in the US are often adulterated and are not, in fact, parmesan, since the cheese gets its name from the Italian city of Parma, ergo if the cheese didn't come from fat, happy Parma cows it is fake! Shame, Kraft, shaaaame!

Throughout the book, Olmsted examines the issue of lax labeling standards in the US, and the country's obstinate refusal to adhere to international pressure to regulate and enforce its food imports and production. This is an issue with certain types of fish, olive oil, Kobe beef, wines, and honey. Olmsted dedicates a section to each of these foodstuffs, first describing his personal experience with the real thing--for example, proper balsamic vinegar is so potent that only drops are added to chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano--and then explaining how counterfeit products are sold in the US with misleading labels. Again, he concludes every chapter with tips on how to spot fake food, such as looking for the country of origin of the product (e.g. champagne should come from France). In this way, he always finishes on a hopeful note, as opposed to say, Jonathan Safran Foer's dolorous Eating Animals.

In closing, I highly recommend this very educational, very delicious book. The author's enthusiasm for real food is apparent on every page, and his lists of tips are very helpful if you're inclined to be discerning about what you eat.

TL;DR: Read it, foodies!!!

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This post brought to you by my odd determination to watch the horror movie Oculus while home alone on a dreary day! Send puppies!